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The Ohio State University OSU Extension OSU OARDC

OSU Honey Bee Lab

Wooster, Ohio

An Outdoor Bee Demonstration

Question:
Our state fair is interested in having a live hive demonstration this year. I have thus far discouraged the idea of handling them behind a screen because I anticipate the bees would get pretty stressed out if we did it for any number of days.

They seem interested in setting up a perimeter around an outdoor hive and providing a wireless mike so I can do some demonstrations there. I expect I can do a simple talk once a day and pull out one frame so people see how the hive works without making the bees too cranky. The things I am a little concerned about include horses that run the sorghum mill and bees ending up in the trash after sodas.

Answer:

My thoughts (in no order of priority) are:

  1. Either way, caged or opened, the bees are going to be stressed.  After the event, anticipate helping the colony with bees from other hives to bring it back up to speed.
  2. Read More »

Out of the office

The Bee Lab will be close from today (7/24) through next Wednesday (7/29). During this time we will be unable to process orders from the store.

Q & A Honey Bound Brood Nest

Question: I bought a 3# package in May of NWC (New World Carniolans). The queen was an egg laying machine. The hive grew rapidly, I had older drawn comb, some new comb and brand new frames for two deeps so I mixed it up. Once the first deep was 8 frames full I added the second. A little less than two weeks ago the second deep was about one quarter full, brood, pollen, larva, eggs, honey beautiful lay out. I was so excited. We left on vacation for one week. Read More »

Colony Splits

During spring and early summer months, healthy beehives can be divided into smaller units. Each component split is given either a mated queen or a couple of queen cells. With care from the beekeeper and good weather, the small colony will build up enough to survive the upcoming winter. As in all start-up colonies, the first winter is generally the worst. The advantage to using colony splits to increase numbers is that costs are kept much lower. Making a colony split is not an exact procedure. Some are successful while others are not.
Read More »

Garden pollinator populations

Question: I haven’t seen any bees in my yard this year.  Why not?  I’m afraid my vegetables and fruit won’t get pollinated.  Do I have a reasonable concern?

Answer: It is true that bee populations of all species have been in decline for the past thirty years.  However, there are redundant pollinator systems in the environment.  If honey bees are not present, other native bees are accomplished pollinators and can readily meet the need.  At this time, I doubt that you will have a pollination problem in your Galloway garden.  Where bees are frequently in short supply are in the large commercial plantings can require up to millions of bees.  Unless the population decline of all bees is halted (or at least slowed), future home gardeners may begin to notice declining vegetable and fruit set.  I don’t sense the time is here yet.

But having said all of that, pollinator populations vary from year to year.  Some seasons have a greater, healthier population while another year may show reduced populations.  Temperatures, rainfall, pesticides, and diseases are some of the reasons for these natural variations.  Unless you are a commercial producer with many acres of production, I feel that your plantings will be okay.  But I can only guess.

Q & A Laying Workers

Question: I have discovered that one of my hives has a laying worker and she has 1, 2, or 3 eggs in every possible space in the hive.  My question is if I install a new queen will she be able to overcome the laying worker and put an end to this business or should I try something else.

Answer: From a practical standpoint, trying to save a laying worker colony is nearly useless.  The colony can and probably does have multiple laying workers.  If it persists long enough, something called a false queen may develop.  Laying workers may take foraging flights and then lay a few eggs.  Don’t try the shaking procedure that is in many the old books.  It doesn’t work.  Regardless, the results are the same – the colony is going to die.  The bees are few and old, the nectar season has pretty much passed and the risk of having a $20 replacement queen killed is too great.  If you do decide to try to requeen this colony, your chances will be much improved if you put some brood, both capped and open, along with a few nurse bees.  Leave the new queen in the colony longer – maybe a week or so before releasing.  The weakest, but easiest scenario, is to just put the new queen in the colony and release her as you normally would.  The best procedure is combining the laying worker colony with a stronger, healthy colony.  Maybe a week or two later, make a split from that colony that contains bees of varying ages, some brood, and some food stores.  Such a split – even though it is about the size of the laying worker colony – will have a better chance of survival.

Using queen cells rather than emerged queens may be a better procedure.  See additional resources.

Additional Resource: http://www.ars.usda.gov/research/publications/publications.htm?SEQ_NO_115=186563